These are the recommended set-up and adjustment steps and specs for your electric Fretlight guitar. These steps assume that your guitar has had a fret level done to it as that adjustment is not included with the guitar's initial setup and lowering the action could introduce some fret noise:
1. Begin by restringing the guitar. Replace the strings one at a time. Gently but thoroughly stretch each new string until it stays in tune. Then, install the next string. When you have replaced all six strings, spend 5 or 10 minutes playing and re-tuning until the new strings settle down and remain in tune.
2. Retune and hold the guitar in playing position. Fret the G string simultaneously at the first and 15th frets. You are using the string as a straightedge! While fretting the string in this manner, check the width of the air gap between the top of the 7th fret and the bottom of the G string. There should be a .005" wide gap. Use a feeler gauge to check this. Using a capo at the first fret will free up a hand for the feeler gauge! If the gap exceeds .005", gently turn the truss rod nut clockwise to tighten it. Turn the nut in very small increments - 1/8 turn at a time. DO NOT over tighten the truss rod! Tightening the truss rod will straighten the neck, thus reducing the air gap at the 7th fret. Before checking measurements be sure to remove the capo and re-tune the guitar. If the air gap is less than .005", gently loosen the truss rod nut by turning counterclockwise. Again, adjust in very small increments. When the rod is adjusted properly, a .005" feeler gauge will only just begin to rub the bottom of the G string when it's slid between the 7th fret top and the bottom of the G string.
3. Continue to hold the guitar in playing position, and remove the capo. Re-tune. Then, use a ruler to check the action height at the 12th fret. Rest the ruler on top of the 12th fret and measure the height of the high E string above the fret.
Use your Allen wrench to raise/lower the high E string saddle (via the two height adjustment screws per saddle) until the high E string just "splits or "hides" the 2/32" line on the ruler. Remember that the ruler is resting on top of the 12th fret, and that you are measuring the air gap between fret top and each string's bottom. Next, re-tune and check the low E string height above the 12th fret top. Raise/lower the low E saddle until the 2/32" line on the ruler "only just" shows below the bottom of the string. Finally, re-tune, and adjust each of the remaining string heights in order to achieve a smooth, gradual increase in string height from the high # string to the low E string. The B string will be ever so slightly higher than the high E; the G string will be higher than the B etc.
Please note that the action at the first fret (via the depth of the nut slots) is preset at the factory. It's best to have a professional luthier make any adjustments to the nut. Here are the specifications for the action at the first fret. Again, measured from the fret top to the underside of each string:
High E 0.013"
Low E 0.020"
5. Setting your intonation is the final step in the setup procedure. If the preceding setup steps have been done correctly, setting your intonation properly will assure that your guitar is working properly.
Re-tune the guitar (yet again!) and hold it in playing position. Set your tuner to tune the high E string. Carefully tune the open high E string. Then perform the following two steps in rapid progression:
1. Play the high E string's 12th fret harmonic right above the 12th fret. The tuner should indicate a perfectly "in-tune" note; tune-up if necessary, and then,
2. Fret the high E at the 12th fret, using your "normal" fretting finger pressure. Note any difference as indicated by the electronic tuner. The harmonic note is always correct; we will be making adjustments so as to make the fretted note match the harmonic.
3. If the fretted note is flat (lower in pitch) relative to the harmonic, move the high E string saddle towards the neck. Do this in small increments, until the fretted note exactly matches the 12th fret harmonic.
4. If the fretted note is sharp (higher in pitch) relative to the harmonic, move the saddle away from the neck, until the fretted note exactly matches the 12th fret harmonic.
5. Repeat this procedure for each string, being careful to keep the guitar exactly in tune during the process.